Last week’s bake was my standard wholemeal loaf, which is actually 50% wholemeal and 50% strong white flour. I’ve been using the same basic recipe for ages, and recently started adding a good chunk of fennel seeds for the flavour and aroma they bring. I add 3–4% fennel seeds, usually after the autolyse. Very good with milder cheeses.
Oh dear. Here we are again on the brink of Fornacalia and, to my shame and despite this website’s name, I have not prepared anything special. I was going to do my 100% rye sourdough, with a nod to some Norse deities, but a microbe attacked my throat and nose on Friday so I didn’t really feel up to it.
Last week’s big bake was of Kalonji bread, which I’ve written about before.
- Not stiff enough? My Pain de Beaucaire
- Bread with kalonji
- Another kalonji bread to bump me out of my rut
These days, I tend to omit the olive oil of the second recipe above and to bump the hydration a bit to 70%. The resulting loaf, as seen above, rises well, has a reasonably tight crumb – good for toast – and tastes delicious.
This is a firm favourite and quite impossible to find anywhere in the city. I’ve been making it forever, based on the original in Hamelman’s Bread adapted for a natural leaven and seven rather than six seeds.
- 50% wholemeal leaven at 75%
- 50% strong white flour
- 20% mixed seeds, soaked (see below). I use oats, corn, pumpkin, sunflower, millet, linseed and sesame.
- 1.8% salt.
- 21% additional water (there’s lots in the leaven and the soaker)
- 5% honey. Optional. I’ve gone off the idea.
- Prepare soaker by pouring 125% boiling water over seeds. So, for 200gm seeds, 250gm boiling water. Leave for at least 2 hours.
- Mix all ingredients. Knead to incorporate and ensure there is no dry flour. Return to bowl.
- Stretch and fold roughly every hour for about 4 hours.
- Turn out, pre-shape and rest, shape and proof for about 2 hours.
- Preheat oven and a casserole to 220°C. Slash the loaves and bake for 50 minutes, removing the cover and lowering the temperature to 210°C after 25 minutes.
Having recently managed to move this site to a new host, the least I could do is bring it back to a kind of life. I’ve been baking solidly all through its existence, but got out of the habit of posting because I really have nothing new to say. I bake bread. I share it. We eat it. That’ll do.
On the other hand, why not share my formulae here?
Light rye with caraway seeds
- 40% Whole rye flour, as ripe 100% starter
- 60% Strong white flour
- 70% Water
- 4% Caraway seeds
- 2% Salt
- Mix all ingredients roughly together in a bowl.
- Turn out on the counter and ensure the dough is well mixed and uniform.
- Replace in bowl, cover, and leave for 50 minutes.
- Lightly oil counter, turn out dough, knead hard and fast, about 5 folds, and return to the bowl.
- Repeat as required each hour until the dough has doubled in volume.
- Turn out, pre-shape and rest, shape and proof for about an hour.
- Bake in a covered casserole in a pre-heated oven at 220°C for 50 minutes, removing cover and turning heat down to 200 °C after 20–25 minutes.
- Allow to cool at least 18 hours before eating.
Around this time, as is customary, my little microbial helpers need a dash of tender loving care. The yoghurt has already had two quick passages and is much the better for it. The kefir is about to have its first. But with temperatures in the high 30s°C I wasn’t super keen to look after the bread starters. Of course I could have just refreshed them without actually baking, but where’s the fun in that, and in any case stocks of frozen bread were dwindling fast. So, yesterday I took a look at the stiffer starter.
It wasn’t good.
The top was dark and slimy, the driest parts powdery (with spores?) and a fair bit of liquid hooch. The smell wasn’t reassurring either. But I’m here to reassure you that all was well and that if you are ever faced with a neglected starter, there’s no need to abandon it.
Turning the lump over, the base was perfectly fine, so I dug out a small spoonful, trying not to break through to the other side. It weighed about 9 gm. I added 24 gm of water and 32 gm of wholewheat flour (preserving the 75% hydration) mixed it up and left it to get going.
One thing about the heat; it got going in a hurry. Three hours later it was light and well aerated. Time for a second build. A single loaf needs only 175 gm of starter, and there was no way I was going to bake two in this heat, so the feed was 75 gm of water and 100 gm of flour.
Again, three hours was about all it took to more than double in volume. After that, I made the bulk dough (50% Manitoba, 50% wholewheat, 2% salt, 70% hydration), gave it a quick knead and left it on the counter for an hour. One set of folds and into the fridge overnight.
This morning I took it out, nicely risen, gently shaped it, placed it in a banneton, and left it for about 90 minutes. Normally I preheat the oven and my Le Creuset casserole for 35 minutes before baking. Given the heat, no way. It has been a long time since I first tried baking from a cold start and only a couple of times since, but saving 35 minutes of oven blasting made it worth it. Lid removed after 30 minutes, baked for a further 20 minutes.
The result was very acceptable. Not as much oven spring perhaps, but plenty, and a nice, even crumb. If this weather keeps up, I will do the same sort of bake when I revive the looser starter.





